The first day

Though frustrated by Air France's check-in process - one line to get our boarding pass, another to check in our luggage, another to hand over our luggage, a fourth to go through security, and yes a fifth to board the plane - we had an uneventful flight to CDG aboard a huge Boeing 767.

Arriving at the airport, we quickly retrieved our bags, bought absurdly expensive espressos and americanos just outside customs, and tried to head into Paris with the train. That a major metropolitan airport would be connected to its metropolis by mass transit seems absurd to this New Yorker. This is where we encountered our first true problem. Twenty vending machines supported several hundred people buying tickets to use the various trains. And seven of those machines didn't work. And when we finally got to one that did work, it only took European credit cards (with the little smart chips in them). It also took Euros, but only coins. And there was no change machine to break our paper Euros.

We took a cab instead.

We arrived at our amazing little apartment on the seventh floor of an adorable 19th century building by 2 in the afternoon and, after unpacking some stuff, promptly took a nap. Two hours of sleep on the plane had left me, at least, feeling sleep-sickness.

We left the apartment around 5 PM and headed to a gourmet market recommended by everyone we know who loves food - La Grande Epicerie. On walking in and completing a quick lap around, we stumble into their wine department, where a salesperson hands us two glasses of champagne to sample. Already I love this country.

We also sample a Vioginer from Côtes du Rhône - Co Ho La - and talk to the saleswoman pouring it. Within three minutes, we find out she's heading to New York in late August. We buy pates, a baugette, butter, yogurt, micro-strawberries, and coffee and head home to prepare dinner.

After dinner we take a leisurly walk through the streets of the neighborhood, gradually meandering towards the Eiffel Tower. The lines to get to the top! It's about 8:30 PM, the sky is still bright with the sun, but we're getting tired. We make our way back to the apartment, climb into bed, and are asleep almost immediately.